Ramsay, by no means knowingly promo shy, barely appears to have completed publicity for this place. Has he even been right here? But truthful sufficient, after his latest Michelin push, Ramsay does TGI Fridays is hardly the finest look. Perhaps it’s an meant money cow, a 250-cover canteen meant to offset any losses elsewhere in the firm. It definitely prices: an inexpensive night time out this isn’t. Of the eight mains, six are north of £40, with the signature beef Wellington at £65 (the subsequent day I lunch at Chelsea’s upmarket NoFifty Cheyne, £59 to share). Sides embrace a £22 lobster tail. Cocktails are principally £17; the wine record’s opening gambit is champagne from £105-a-bottle, with simply three nonetheless wines underneath £50. Wines they pour at velocity and in giant parts, edging you in the direction of a second bottle. It is straightforward to resent this form of avarice encouragement. Ramsay’s Savoy Grill prices about the identical for the same menu, solely at the Grill there’s a sense of historical past and much fewer bandanas. Oh, and I’ve by no means eaten there nervous the desk would possibly collapse.
Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen, London, review: TGI Fridays (at twice the price)
